What to do in the Ait Bougmez Valley

How green is the Moroccan Happy Valley... Mountains with wild charm, hilltop villages, islands of greenery... Discover these preserved lands of the Moroccan Atlas. In the High Atlas, the Aït Bougmez Valley, a four-hour drive west of Marrakech, is home to a myriad of villages clinging to the mountainsides.

These ochre hamlets blend into a mineral landscape sheared by canyons from which a green oasis emerges. To take advantage of this haven of peace, walks can be done from a village or in stages, on foot, alone or in a group.

Stroll through the orchards

Starting from the village of Zawyat Oulmzi, located at an altitude of 1,781 meters, we follow the path on foot that takes us to Lake Izourar, where nomads set up their tents for the summer.
In the early morning, autumn light floods the apple fields covered with magnificent red fruits ready to be picked.
It has been at least thirty years since these trees were introduced into the valley. And since then, almost every village has been growing it.
Surrounded by the M'Goun, Azourki and Rat mountains, these orchards are a great invitation to stroll along the irrigation canals.

Penetrating the attic by Sidi Moussa

At the top of the mountain, a 3-hour walk from Touda, we discover a fortified building built of juniper wood and earth. It houses the tomb of the marabout Sidi Moussa, a saint venerated for his healing gifts and his powers of interpreting dreams. This sacred place was also used as a collective granary to store and preserve crops.
Inside, there are lodges in which the villagers sheltered their valuables and jewelry.
From the terrace, the exceptional panoramic view offers an astonishing contrast between this green oasis and the desert mountains.

Get a henna tattoo

Direction Zawyat Oulmzi, a small village 2100m away where Ahmed's family shares Berber traditions with its visitors.
On the program: preparing and tasting couscous, henna tattooing and baking bread in a stone oven.
In the kitchen, four generations of women with bright faces are busy, who pass on their know-how with generosity.

Shopping at the Tabant souk

Renowned for its souk, the small town of Tabant is considered to be the capital of the valley.
Every Sunday, villagers arrive there by mule, on foot and, for a very short time, by car, to sell and buy fresh products and all sorts of goods: wool, sheep or wicker baskets... The colorful stalls overflow onto the sidewalks.
We talk, we exchange, we barter... An essential place to do business in the valley.

Admire the wildlife of the highlands

Almost 2 hours of walking are expected to reach Lake Izourar from the village of Zawyat Oulmzi.
Along the way, the mineral cliffs gradually give way to a vast steppe dominated by Mount Wawgoulzat, culminating at 3,763 meters.
Plains that nomads use in October to take their herds transhumanently.
These highlands are also home to birds with poetic names: the creek wagtail, Moussier's rubiette or the melodious linotte.
Once you pass the Tizi n'Taghfist pass (2,540 meters above sea level), you can see the stretch of water with silver reflections on the edge of which we will pitch the tent.

Deciphering petroglyphs

Before returning to Marrakech, a detour to the Tizi n'Tirghist pass (2,629 m above sea level) is essential to take a leap into the history of the region.
This is where geologists discovered stones covered with carvings (petroglyphs) that are believed to be 4,000 years old.
These archaeological discoveries would attest to the presence of prehistoric men in the High Atlas, probably from the Sahara.