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Cultural adventure in the High Atlas

Through the eyes of a French student, this story tells of a unique immersion in the Aït Bougmez Valley, in the heart of the Moroccan High Atlas, between eco-museum projects, human encounters and the discovery of an authentic way of life.

Personne dans une longue cape contemplant la vallée des Aït Bougmez dans l'Atlas marocain

Introduction

My name is Pauline, I am French and am in the process of completing my university studies. This end of Master's studies, in the field of Tourism Management and Development in Destinations, ends with a 6-month professional internship, complemented by a professional thesis.

But can I really consider the experience I am going through as an “internship”? In general, the cliché of the intern is not flattering: ungrateful status, tasks such as “photocopier and coffee machine”, overexploitation or boredom of the intern... Well no, no similarity with what I am currently experiencing on a daily basis.

My internship is part of a real social project, unique in the destination, a challenge in itself: to create an Ecomuseum in the remote village of Zaywat Oulmzi, the last village in the Ait Bougmez Valley, in the Moroccan High Atlas, in the Moroccan High Atlas, at an altitude of more than 2000 meters. The frame is set!

What is an Ecomuseum?

“One Ecomuseum, it is a mirror where the population looks at itself, to recognize itself, where it seeks the explanation of the territory to which it is attached, combined with that of the populations that preceded it [...] a mirror that this population holds out to its hosts, in order to be better understood, in order to be better understood, in accordance with their work, their behaviors and their privacy.”
Georges Henri Rivière, definition of the Ecomuseum, January 13, 1976.

So there you go, The manufacture of this mirror, I have been trying to contribute for 3 months now. A great challenge to take up, for a young student just coming out of school and completely foreign to this territory of the Ait Bougmez.

My arrival in the valley

I arrived in this beautiful valley at the beginning of April, to better immerse myself in the local way of life, a hard but peaceful daily life, where daily tasks are governed by the rhythm of the sun and prayers, without stress or stress. A simple and wise way of life, which we, Westerners in need of authenticity and tranquility, have somewhat forgotten.

Nevertheless, the life of the Ait Bougmez is not a dream life: far from everything, electricity came to the valley only about fifteen years ago. A good part of the population is illiterate, the nearest hospital is 2 hours away by road/track, youth education often stops after primary school, the main means of transport are mules and donkeys, and legs...

But these inhabitants, what characters! And their living environment, what landscapes!

Between the Touda Ecolodge and the houses of the village

The experience in the Ait Bougmez Valley is spent between an Ecolodge called Touda and the homes of families living in Zaywat Oulmzi. There, I am housed, fed and pampered as never before, by the people who make up the soul of the Ecolodge and the village:

  • Fatima, the cook
  • Aïsha and Nejma, her helpers
  • Brahim, assistant cook, waiter, mule driver, farmer
  • Ali, village chief and tooth-digger
  • Ahmed, his son, a multifaceted man with his heart on his hands

But the biggest thanks go to the courageous, strong and smiling women of the village, who ensure the daily life of their families.
Saha Tamtot! (“Thank you women” in Berber)

I was welcomed with open arms, by people who have only the essentials, the joy of life, kindness and humility, and who gave me a lot.

The Ecomuseum project: stages and mission

• Acquisition

First of all, it is the acquisition of a traditional house, located in the heart of the village, which is more than 200 years old. A house with an exceptional reception room, with an indisputable authentic charm.

• Renovation

Then it was its renovation with some inhabitants of the village: creation of openings and installation of windows, flat areas of paint, plaster and earth, bringing the rooms in the building up to standard...

• Museographic enhancement

It is the museographic enhancement of the house, with the help of some inhabitants as well: collection of objects from daily life, yesterday and today, explanations on their use and history...

• Involvement of residents

Last but not least, it is the exchange with the inhabitants, who will participate in the life of the Bougmez Valley Ecomuseum by guiding, preparing tea, weaving or simply by the way saying “Salam aleikoum” to visitors!

A project under construction... already alive and well

This project is still under construction, but it is gradually becoming a reality:

  • on site, the rooms are renovated,
  • the museum collection is already provided,
  • the layout and the animations are planned...

Remotely: a website is created, social networks are animated, partnerships are being created.

This project is also a financial investment: the renovation of the house, the acquisition of objects, their museographic presentation, the promotion of the Ecomuseum... All this comes at a cost.
So I am also participating in the looking for financial aid : public institutions, cultural networks, business foundations, private donors.

A project like this needs real community and societal commitment. Notice to those interested!

Thanks

Finally, I owe this exceptional experience to an association: The Traveler's Tree, and to its creator, Said Marghadi. The association works in the valley for human development, for the enhancement of Berber culture and for the promotion of sustainable tourism.

A great adventure that has only just begun, since I am in “Ait Bougmez experience” until the end of September 2015...
But for sure, The adventure won't end there, Inshallah...
One cannot leave this atmosphere of the High Atlas and the “Bougmez Valley”, love at first sight is immediate and unforgettable...

Useful links

Facebook pages of:

  • The Ecomuseum
  • The Ait Bougmez Valley

The website is in the process of being created!

A film that carries all the flavors of the valley, a true ambassador.

Auteur

Saïd Marghadi

Publié le

Mar 23, 2018

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